Port Vila, Efate 26 October 2008 Les på norsk

Palangi in paradise

**JANITORS** Palapi and Alatina are like janitors in Swains Island, and they are preparing the islands infrastructure for the planned rebuilding after the Cyclone Percy hit the island in 2005. Here they are dragging their skiff over the shallow reef and into the beach, carrying us in it. Behind Palapi can be seen ”the landing”, constituting little more than a crack in the massice reef!

NEWS AND FEATURE STORIES

PAGO PAGO: One day the Port Captain of Pago Pago called all ships in the harbour with a request if anyone could conceive of going to the little atoll of Swains Island, some 220 nautical miles to the north, carrying provisions. Departure was as soon as possible.

FACTS ABOUT SWAINS ISLAND

Swains Island is an atoll in the Tokelau chain, the most northwesterly island administered by American Samoa. Culturally a part of the Tokelau Islands, politically it is an unorganized territory of the United States of America. Swains Island has also been known at various times as Olosenga Island, Olohega Island, Quiros Island, Gente Hermosa Island, and Jennings Island.
Swains Island has a total area of 1.865 km2, of which 1.508 km2 (151 ha) is land. The central lagoon accounts for the balance of 0.358 km2. There is a small islet of 764 m2 in the eastern part of the lagoon. The atoll is somewhat unusual, featuring an unbroken circle of land enclosing a freshwater lagoon cut off from the sea.
Pedro Fernandes de Queirós, a Portuguese navigator sailing for Spain, is believed to have been the first European explorer to have discovered Swains Island on 2 March 1606. He named it Isla de la Gente Hermosa, which means "island of the beautiful people" in Spanish. Later, there was an expedition from Fakaofo to the island. The male inhabitants of the island either fled or were killed by the invaders, while the women were taken back to Fakaofo. The subsequent infertility of the island is attributed to a curse placed on it by its last chief.
In February 2005, Cyclone Percy struck the island, causing widespread damage and virtually destroying the village of Taulaga, as well as the old Jennings estate at Etena. Fortunately, only seven people were on the island at the time. Coast Guard airdrops ensured that the islanders were not left without food, water and other necessities. A Coast Guard visit in March 2007 listed 12 to 15 inhabitants, and showed that the island's trees had largely survived Percy's wrath.
The currency is USD, but there are no ATMs on the island. Nor anything else, apart from the dwellings of those who live there, a Toyota 4 WD motor car, a generator, a small skiff and an SSB radio.

(Source: Wikipedia)

**MOORING** The skiff is moored on the reef itself when it is not being hauled out of the water.

**PURE EXPERT** The art of climbing coconut trees for coconuts is taught from childhood in Polynesia. Alatina jumped up and fetched us some. Rune drank nine coconuts on the first day alone. It was so hot!

**COCONUT OIL** From the coconut tree they also retrieve a sweet oil that can be used for cooking and making sauces. Lovely, as everything else coming from this tree. (See the bottle to the top right in the picture.)

**OVERHEATED** The two have an old wreck of a Toyota to help themselves with. There are only a few hundred meters of dirtroad son the island, but the car boiled over in the strong sunshine anyway.

**OFF THE BEATEN TRACK** At Swains there are no telephones, and no postal services. Alatina and Palapi are isolated for months at a time. Here, Alatina is communicating through the SSB radio, their only link to the outside world.

**COCONUT CRABS** The coconut crab is one of the biggest delicacies in the entire Pacific. They have come ashore permanently, and live in little caves in the sand. The coconut crab feeds on coconuts that it climbs the trees to find. Here Palapi is showing off to big and colorful specimen that are about to become our dinner!

**PROUD HUNTERS** Two proud hunters with the languster catch of the night. Armed with torches and spears they wander the reef searching for their prey.

**FAREWELL BANQUET** The whole gang gathered for our farewell banquet. It is the last day for us, and we have to get going. Lobster, uru (breadfruit), barracuda and coconut are on the menu. We ate until we couldn’t eat no more!

**THE LEFTOVERS** Emppty shells on three different plates. In the end, Alatina simply helped us peel lobster, so we wouldnt have to waste time, but only eat and enjoy ourselves!

**ON OUT WAY OUT** We are on our way back out to Underveis, with the 13 foot aluminium skiff they use. Loaded with fruits, crabs and all sorts of good stuff.

**LOADED** Underveis was much more loaded when we left than when we arrived. It was sad to say goodbye, but that’s what it is like to be on our way all the time.

Port Vila, Efate, 26.10.2008